Thursday, 28 February 2013

Self-arrest as a security measure

Self-arrest is a measure of last recourse. In general one should not rely on self-arrest to guarantee security while engaging a slope. Instead the appropriate techniques of self belay or roped belay should be used. Security experts have suggested that sole use of the rope without intermediate protection points, as done by roped parties during glacier travel, should be avoided in slopes. This technique may make self-arrest almost impossible, causing the fall of a single climber to bring down the entire party.